Nîmes - Nemausa and Nemausus

Symbol of the city of Nîmes - from a coin honoring Julius Caesar's capture of Egypt

Nîmes is a fascinating city.  You walk along tree lined avenue and then suddenly you are standing in front of a Roman temple, you go the other way and you wind up in front of a Roman arena.  No, I did not go to Rome!  This city, with Celtic origins, Gallo-Roman ruins and beautiful gardens is located about 1 1/2 hours west of Marseille.

We started our visit in the Place D'Assas. This modern square, formerly a public washing square, was designed by the painter and sculptor Martial Raysse in 1989.  There is a long fountain with heads spouting water, these statues represent Nemausa, the spring forming the origin of Nîmes and the god Nemausus, the male force of the city. 

Nemausa

Nemausus

Our next stop was La Maison Carrée, a beautiful temple dedicated to Caius and Lucius Ceasar.  The temple was originally the focal part of a much larger forum that can only be imagined by looking at the footprints of the former columns surrounding the temple.  Inside the temple, there is a film that explains the origins and history of the city.  It was interesting to find out that a Celtic tribe had settled in the area in the 6th century BC.  They built their lives around the spring, honoring it's deity and building a sanctuary.  Later, when the Romans arrived, they joined the legions without resistance helping to enlarge the Roman empire.

Statue and poster advertising the movie NEMAUSUS

Lunch outside on the terrace of a small Italian restaurant.

 Yum!

Les Arènes de Nîmes

The arena or amphitheater was constructed at the end of the 1st century AD.  It is one of the largest and best preserved arenas.  It was used to house all kinds of spectacles featuring animals and gladiators.  It now serves as a concert hall, sport arena, bullring, and museum.  We were able to visit the different levels of the arena, while listening to a wonderful audio-guide that explained the use of the the arena throughout the ages.  It was amazing to sit in the arena and imagine the gladiators fighting below and the crowds shouting above.  

We left the arena with one more stop to go, the Tour Magne.  We stopped for a chocolate break and continued on to the tower.  To get there we had to walk through the Jardins de la Fontaine (The Fountain Gardens).  The garden was constructed around the site of an ancient sanctuary and the spring around the 1st century BC.  Decorated in a traditional French style, it has many fountains, statues and vases.  We strolled up the hill, through paths shaded by by cypress and pine trees, to the highest point in the city.  The Romans built the Tour Magne on top of the original tower built by the Celtic tribe.  The tower now is 32 meters tall and offers a beautiful view of the city.

 It was dark when we finally made it down from the tower and out of the park.  Since the weather was so nice, we were not in a hurry to go home.  We had a beautiful day visiting this beautiful city.

Aigue-Mortes - Medieval Fortified City

What is a fortified city?  A fortified city is built with a defensive wall that is used to protect its inhabitants from invaders. La Ville de Québec is the only fortified city in North America north of Mexico.  When I took my students to Québec City, walking through the gates was like taking a stroll back in time.  There are many fortified cities in France, Carcassonne; Avignon and Aigues-Mortes just to name a few.   We had the opportunity to visit a fortified city near the Camargue. Our excursion to Aigues-Mortes was a fun filled, tower-climbing, wall-walking adventure.  Take a look at some other fortified cities.

La Ville de Québec - CANADA
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramparts_of_Quebec_City#/media/File:Quebec_City_Wall.jpg

Carcassonne
http://www.creme-de-languedoc.com/Languedoc/sightseeing/carcassonne-citadel.php#

Avignon
http://www.avignon-et-provence.com/avignon-tourism/monuments/remparts-avignon.htm#.Vkhkx_mrTIU

Aigues-Mortes is located in the Camargue - Delta of the Rhone river (see blog from last week).   It was built in a marshy area of the Camargue and the name Aigues-Mortes has Occitan origins meaning "dead water" or "stagnant water.  This area was probably used for salt making as early as the Greek and Roman times. 

http://www.weather-forecast.com/locations/Aigues-Mortes

In 1240, Louis IX wanting to increase his kingdom and obtain direct access to the Mediterranean Sea, acquired lands from the local religious order, creating the first French port on the Mediterranean Sea. Later he ordered the construction of the Constance Tower to house his army and the construction of canals to the sea.   In order to reach Aigues-Mortes, boats would have to access the ponds and marshes through different channels.   The city was also the starting point for the Seventh and Eight Crusades. Louis IX would not survive to see the walls that were built to surround the city thirty years later.  

La Tour Constance

The Edict of Nantes, signed in 1598, allowed Protestants civil rights and recognition in France.   Aigues-Mortes was one of several cities where the Protestants could find safe haven.  Eventually with the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, the one time safe haven for Protestants became a prison.  The Constance Tower held Protestants (Huguenots) who refused to convert to Catholicism. One prisioner, Marie Durand, who would not give up her faith, was imprisoned for 38 years.  Today you can see a plaque that was constructed in memory of the liberation of the prisoners.

Huguenot Memorial -  Memorial August 30, 1968 for the 200th year anniversary of the liberation of Huguenot prisoners

Upon our arrival, we jumped on the "petit train" and had a half hour tour of the city.  We were able to see all the parts of the city and hear a brief history.   We decided to visit the tower and the ramparts next. We climbed the Constance tower and visited the different chambers.  We even got to see medieval graffiti and toilets! We learned that it took many years to make the 1640 meters (5380 feet) of fortifications and that the walls are in near original condition.  

Little Train selfie

La Porte de la Garette

View of the southern walls

medieval potty

medieval graffiti depicting boat

After, we had lunch on the main street and visited the church and the main square.  The Statue of Saint Louis (Louis IX) is prominent in the center of the square surrounded by a fish fountain.  The church, Notre Dame des Sablons, was interesting, with colorful modern windows that contrasted the 13th century architecture.  The Camargue cross was near the altar and it was beautiful in the afternoon light.  

Saint Louis - Louis IX

Mmmmm - frites!

Our visit to the fortified City of Aigues-Mortes was perfect. Our day complete, we finished off the afternoon with some shopping (salt, cookies, dish towels and scarves) and we ate some gelato.  All sunny days should end with gelato!

Pink flamingos, white horses, salt and saints - The Camargue

The Camargue is somewhere I have always wanted to visit and we were able to explore the region during the October school vacation.  The Camargue is formed by two arms of the Rhone River, the Grand-Rhone and the Petit-Rhone  all which flow into the Mediterranean sea.  Because of its unique mixture of freshwater and saltwater, this natural delta wetland is home to many varieties of birds and animals. 

http://www.lost-in-france.com/french-regions/provence/1056-the-magnificent-camargue

On our first day we headed to the town of Salin-de-Giraud where we saw flamingos in the shallow waters and salt flats.  Upon first glance, I was surprised to see the town set up in a grid because I am so used to "hanging" villages that are built into the contours of a hill.  This town had a definite grid pattern and after some research I learned that that particular neighborhood of Salin-de-Giraud was built to house the salt flat workers.  Salt has been produced in this area for hundreds of years but in the latter half of the 1800's there were two factories that used salt to produce sodium carbonate.  

Former housing for factory workers - Salin-de-Giraud

Salt Flats 

Mounds of salt

Plage de Piemanson was the next stop on our itinerary.  The road to get there was bordered on one side by the Rhone River and the other by salt pools.  The drive was beautiful and we were able to see herons, swans, ducks, gulls and flamingos.

The tourist office suggested an easy walk to a lighthouse across some "digues" (earthen seawalls) and we desperately tried to find the road that would take us to the trail head.  Unfortunately we ran out of time. The sun was setting and we still had to find our way out.

The sun setting on the Camargue

Time to find our way out of here! 

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer was on our itinerary for the next day.  We parked in the village near the "arènes" (bullring) and we took a short walk along the beach.  Most of the buildings in the village are white-washed with red tile roofs.  I felt like I was in Spain, not in France.  The church/fortress Sainte-Maries-de-la-Mer occupies a central square in the village.  From the beach we could see that people are allowed to go on the roof terrace of the church but the inside was recently closed for restoration. 

Beach walk Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer

L'Eglise Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer with visitors perched along the roof line

Mary Magdalene, Mary Salome and Mary Jacobe, women present at the Crucifixion of Christ, came to what is now known as Sainte-Maires-de-la-Mer.  The relics of Mary Salome and Mary Jacobe are stored in the church and people worldwide make pilgrimages here to honor the saints.  Saint Sarah, the patron saint of Romani (Gypsy), is venerated here and the church and town has become an important place of pilgrimage for Gypsies.  The procession of the "Black Mary" is an event every year where thousands of "Gitan" or Roma parade the statue of the saint to the sea.

Camargue Cross -  cross, Camargue trident, heart and anchor - Symbols of the Camargue

Camargue Horses

We finished off the afternoon horseback riding in the marshes of the Camargue.  Sophia and I went with a group for an hour ride.  It was fantastic!  The weather was perfect, the sun was setting and the horses were beautiful.  Every time I write a blog I say that there is so much more to see and that I want to return!  Once again it is true for the Camargue. I want to return when the days are longer and I can visit the sunny beaches of this natural wonder - the Camargue.

Burgundy - Beaune et la Côte d'Or

We traveled to the heart of the Burgundy region last week.  Our visit to Dijon, the capital of the Côte d'Or region, was fantastic.  Walking through the city we saw different styles of architecture and different eras of history and we enjoyed it all.  We also had the opportunity to explore areas south of Dijon.  Our explorations took us to the city of Beaune, three very different châteaux, a new wine festival(vin bourru) in Nuits-Saint-Georges and a Crème de Cassis Factory.   

http://www.1france.fr/departement/21-cote-d-or/img/images/21-cote-d-or.jpg

We started our trip with the idea of visiting the Château de la Rochepot.  The guidebook and the back of the map said that it was a fairy tale castle worth visiting.  So off we went.  We weren't even half way there when two of us had to go to the bathroom.  What to do?  We saw a sign for a restaurant, pulled over and inquired only to find out that the sign was from the previous decade and we were then invited in to use this person's private toilette! I was amazed by such kindness given to us.  So finally, we arrive in Rochepot, drive up to the château only to find out that it closed on the 28th of August!  Thanks to the internet we found another château to visit not too far away.  We drove to the village of Ivry-en Montagne and visited Chateau de Coraboeuf. The weather was not perfect but the château and its setting was.  It was lovingly restored by the many branches of the family that still owns this historical monument.  Visitors are allowed to visit the history presentation in the dungeon (donjon) and walk the grounds.

Château de la Rochepot

CLOSED!

Disappointed and wet but happy!

 

Château de Coraboeuf

Next, our explorations took us to the city of Beaune, which is located about 45 minutes south-east of Dijon.  This walled city had links to the Dukes of Burgundy and there are many historical monuments to visit.  We visited the Hospices de Beaune - l'Hôtel de Dieu.  This hospital or Palace of the Poor was created in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin and his wife Guigone de Salins to serve the poor and needy of the region.  The hospital was run by the Sisters of Hospices de Beaune until the 20th century.  Today you can visit the great halls, sick rooms, kitchen and apothecary that were used for 500 years.  Throughout the building there are many works of religious art and antiques that are on display.

Hôtel de Dieu- Beaune
Fantastic tilework

La Grande Salle des Pôvres

Coats of Arms on the Chapelle

The next day we decided to taste some wine.  Our first stop was the Château du Clos de Vougeot.  This château was built by the Cistercian monks in the 12th century.  Over the centuries it changed hands many times and although it no longer produces wines, the vineyards surrounding the château have the prestigious name Clos de Vougeot.  The Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin (Brotherhood of the Knights of Tastevin) saved the château and currently helps to promote Burgundy wine throughout France and the world.  Today you can visit the chateau kitchens, reception hall and pressing rooms.  The giant presses and barrels are formidable.  

Press used by the monks to make wine

Statue representing the harvesting of the grapes

Never in vain, always in wine

Château du Clos du Vougeot

Vineyards - Château du Clos du Vougoet

 After visiting this château, we headed to Nuits-Saint-Georges to partake in the Fête du Vin Bourru - new wine festival.  At the festival you get to try Vin Bourru, newly fermented grape juice.  It is sweet and is slightly effervescent.  There were many vendors giving wine and food samples at the festival. One of the specialites served at the festival was a dish, citeau-flette, made with potatoes, onions, bacon, and local cheese .  The man serving the dish was dressed in honnor of the Cistercian Monks who make fromage de cîteaux, a local cheese

Cîteau-flette, a Nuits-Saint-George speciality

Our final stop for the day was the Cassissium, a factory that makes Crème de Cassis, blackcurrant liquor.  We learned all about the blackcurrant berry and the different varieties throughout the world.  The guided tour of the factory ended up in the tasting room where were allowed to taste all of the products and the children were allowed to taste as many fruit syrups (sirops) as they wanted.  I bought a bottle of Crème de Cassis and a bottle of Crème de Griotte, a Cherry liquor.  Our adventures in the Côte d'Or region of France was full of tasty morsels for our eyes and mouths.  I would not hesitate to visit the area again.