Dijon - It's not just mustard!

During the Toussaint vacation, schools in France are typically on vacation for the last two weeks in October. The first of November is a religious holiday but also an official holiday when all the banks, schools and public offices are closed.  Stores are full of potted chrysanthemums that people bring to the cemetery on November 1st.  I am tempted to purchase some of these colorful plants to put at my doorstep or on my balcony but since it is a traditional flower for the graveside, it would be a bit macabre.  Sophia and I are taking advantage of this two week vacation to meet up with our German friends in Dijon.

http://www.worldeasyguides.com/france/dijon/where-is-dijon-on-map-france/

Dijon is located close to the center of France, in the heart of the Burgundy region.  It took us 5½ hours to drive to Dijon.  We chose to go north, eventually leaving the highway to drive through the mountains and then picking up the highway again near Grenoble.  The views were beautiful the whole way!  

We finally arrived outside of Dijon in a small hamlet outside of the village of Aiserey. where our fiends found this lovely vacation rental or "Gite".  I want to shout out to Claire and Cyril of "La maison au comptoir" for providing us with such a beautiful home.  It was a great base for our exploration of  Dijon and the surrounding area.

Market day is Friday in Dijon and we decided to start at "les Halles" a beautiful covered market designed by Gustave Eiffel, think Eiffel tower.  Don't go there if you don't want to buy food!  Lots of beautiful, colorful, edible food.  Except the mushrooms and some organ meats, I was in culinary heaven.  Not only was there lots of mustard but there were other delicacies from the area like nonnettes, Crème de Cassis, pain d'epices, Burgandy wine, snails and so much more!  

salt cod 

Dijon - les Halles

We decided to continue our visit of Dijon by following the "parcours de chouette" or Owl trail.  After purchasing a book at the tourist office we followed brass triangles around the city and explored some of its historical monuments.  We climbed up the tower of Philippe le Bon where we learned about the construction of the tower and from the top we could see the signature multi-colored rooftops of the Dijon region. 

Gargoyle - Tour Philippe le Bon

Multi-colored tile roofs - view from tower

Half timbered house

http://www.hotel-republique.fr/le-parcours-de-la-chouette/

We visited the interior of Saint-Michel church and in Saint-Benigne cathedral we also visited the crypt.  The girls thought it was a bit creepy but I liked to see the architecture and history of the church.  The path brought us through Place de la Liberation where we could see the outside of the Ducal palace and Place Darcy which had lots of shops, cafés and a triomphal arch with a Mario hanging in the center of it.  Our visit of Dijon ended up in the Jardin Dracy where the were able to take a picture with the white bear of Dijon and throw coins in the fountain.  There is so much more to see in this city and I hope that one day we will return to spend more time.  Many thanks to my friends who joined us in Dijon, it was so much fun to explore with you! Let's do it again! ♥

Ducal palace entrance and two Dukes

Ducal Palace and Place de la Liberation

Place de la Liberation

Jardin Darcy - l'Ours Blanc

Place Darcy - Mario

Saturdays and Sundays in Apt

The city of Apt is located in the department of Vaucluse in the region of Provence-Alpes-Côtes d'Azur.  Located on the northern side of the Luberon Mountain, Apt is a beautiful town situated in the heart of Provence.  The area surrounding Apt is filled with fields of lavender, grapes and sunflowers and driving through this area is a feast for the eyes and senses in almost every season.  I am so lucky that my husband grew up in Apt and because of this we often spend our summer vacation visiting relatives in the area and enjoying the extreme blue sky of Provence.  

http://www.walkinnprovence.com/en/provence-crafts.html

Apt has one of the best Saturday morning markets in the area. The streets and squares are filled with vendors who sell all sorts of local foods and products.  There are also many other vendors who sell hand crafted clothing, jewelry and fabric, tablecloths and so much more.  Every year I buy tablecloths with the Provençal motif of olives, sunflowers, lavender and cigales (a cicada that makes a lot of noise when it is hot out).  The tablecloths are colorful and make beautiful gifts.  My husband begs me not to bring any more home but they are so colorful and each one is so unique, I can't seem to get enough!

One Saturday morning this summer Sophia and I decided to walk to the market.  We strolled through the crowds and saw all the wonderful things to eat and buy.  Eventually we ended up on a small square in the center of town.  In the middle of some remains of some roman ruins in Place Jean Jaurès, a local circus school had set up some of their material and kids were being encouraged to try out the stuff. There was a trapeze, balance boards, unicycle, diablos, devil sticks and an enormous ball that the kids were walking on.  Sophia had so much fun trying out the equipment and she wants to make her own devil sticks!

Cours Lauze de Perret

Sunday mornings are quiet in Apt.  The hustle and bustle of the Saturday morning market are gone so it is easier to stroll and explore the streets of the city.  With the absence of the market, the Cathedral of Sainte-Anne is easier to visit.  It is a beautiful church dating from  the 14th century. I was amazed to find out that the relics of Sainte-Anne are enshrined in the Cathedral.  On Saturdays I enjoy visiting the market and being overwhelmed with the sounds and smells but on Sunday, I enjoy strolling through the streets of Apt looking at the different types of architecture, visiting the squares and quiet streets.  

City Hall

Place de la Bouquerie

Saignon

The Luberon valley is dotted with lovely villages perched overlooking the hills. Saignon is one of these villages just outside of Apt. I have been visiting Saignon since 1988 when I first met my husband.  Each time I travel to Apt, I hope to find time to visit this enchanting village.  I love the small roads and paths, the ruins, the rock and the view overlooking the Luberon valley.  On clear days you can see Mount Ventoux off in the distance. 

Sophia climbing the rock in Saignon










According to the Saignon tourism page, the town is built on a rock promontory and the highest point of the village of 645 meters (2080 feet) is the "rocher" or rock which itself is about 30 meters (90 feet). It is said that this rock was used as an observatory and a place to send out signals. Climbing up on the rock, it is clear to see why it was used this way.   

The village has a lovely square with a beautiful fountain, public washing area (lavoirs publics), church, bakery, cafe and, depending on the season, a gallery and a boutique.

Some summers ago we sat at the café on the fountain square and listened to the water trickle into the fountain and the wash basins.  During another visit, we arrived just in time for "la fête votive" of Saignon.  This orginally was the festival dedicated to the patron saint of the village.  Today, "la fête votive" is often celebrated with a band, dinner, "jeu de boules" or petanque contest.  The mayor's office offered a toast of wine and little appetizers and Sophia went on the blow up slide. 

I often go to Saignon with friends and family to visit the ruins and climb the rock.   It doesn't matter what season, it is a beautiful spot to return to year after year.

Sainte-Tulle

Sainte-Tulle is a small village of about 3,500 located 3 miles from Manosque, a larger city about the size of Saratoga Springs or Glens Falls.  The village of Sainte-Tulle has many amenities in walking distance from our home.  There is a butcher shop, 2 bakeries, pharmacy, post office, newspaper store, movie theater, library and ATM machine all within a 3 minute walk.   My daughter can walk to school in 8 minutes and she has the opportunity to come home for lunch as well.  We are so accustomed to driving everywhere we go at home that the convenience of a small village is new and appreciated. 

La transhumance - Sheep herding down my street

Sainte-Tulle 

in the evening

Since we've been here, there have been two community activities in which we participated.  La Fête des Saucisses and La Fête de la Science.  Looking at the name of the first "festival" (The Sausage Festival), I thought there would be artisanal crafters of various sausages and we would be able to buy from stands to taste the local products.  However, here in Sainte-Tulle, the Fête des Saucisses is a kind of welcome back-to-school event where the local bar sells sausage sandwiches and there are carnival rides and live music. We were not at all disappointed!  It was a beautiful day and we sat outside eating sausage sandwiches and hot “frites” watching the local country line dancers groove to all sorts of music.  There was also a town garage sale going on at the same time, so we had the opportunity to do a little browsing before lunch.    

 

La fête des saucisses

The second "festival" (The Festival of Sciences) was held the first weekend in October.  This activity consisted of science exhibits in municipal buildings in Sainte-Tulle.  In the Library there were displays about illusion and light, in the theater there were exhibits about light painting and polarization.  In the main public space, la salle des fêtes, there were 20 or so different exhibits of topics varying from a portable planetarium,  global warming, solar system scale model, alternative energies and the local fusion reaction project - ITER.  There were also guided talks at the local EDF (France Electric Company) site that featured hydroelectric power of the dams and canals in the region.  I was the first to visit the event on Friday morning when I volunteered to chaperon a group of 8^th graders to the event.  They were mostly interested like most 8^th graders.  We visited different exhibits on Saturday and Sunday but my husband enjoyed it the most.  Overall the event was interesting and I was able to get some ideas of science topics that I can use in my class at home. Watch out SGF!

We are getting in the swing of everyday life here.  Sophia is getting used to her French middle school schedule which is nothing like our schedules at home.  We both are enrolled in the local gym where we take Zumba, stretching and resistance classes.  Sophia takes tennis lessons while I volunteer for the town tutoring students in English.  We have slowed down from our life at home but we need the extra time to think and reflect in French.