Christmas in Provence - Santons and the 13 desserts

Christmas in Provence is a special time.  The streets light up, the villages are decorated, Christmas markets are everywhere and the traditional Provençal crèche are created.  In the weeks before Christmas, Sophia and I visited several markets and we enjoyed the decorations everywhere we went.  We decided to go to Aix-en-Provence to check out the festivities and we were highly rewarded with lights, rides, and crowds.

Marché de Noël - Aix-En-Provence

Père Noël et ses lutins

A little bit of jazz!

Marché de Noël - Montfuron

 One of the Marché de Noël that we went to was in Montfuron, a nearby village up in the mountains.  It was drizzling out and it was a bit cold but people still came out to do a little shopping.  Students from the elementary school sang Christmas songs and some of Santa's helpers did a dance routine.  We bought some earrings, took a look at the crèche in the church and took a walk to the highest part of the village to see the views.  

Le Moulin - Montfuron

Montfuron in the rain

The crèche, a manger scene, is a big part of Christmas here in Provence.  There are crèche in churches, in the airport, in stores and in peoples' homes. Some of them are small and some of them are grandiose.  









In Provence, a traditional crèche has the manger scene as  well as santons representing almost every possible profession of a village circa 1850.  The santon or "little saint" can be made of painted clay or more like a doll with cloth clothing.   There was a santon market in Aix-en-Provence and we were amazed at all the different characters and decorations one can purchase to decorate the crèche.

We visited the crèche in Montfuron and when I was telling someone how beautiful it was the told me I HAD to go to the village of Banon to see the crèche there. 

Crèche scene Montfuron

Here they are playing Pétanque! - Montfuron

Manger Scene - Montfuron

The day after Christmas we took a ride to Banon.  Banon is famous for its goat cheese and the Bleuet book store.  It seems it is also famous for its huge crèche.  The church was crowded and it took at least 20 minutes to make the full circle.  There is so much to look at; different vignettes, moving parts, lights and all the different characters.  I overheard someone saying that it is different every year. 

The moulin on the hill - Banon

 taking a stroll - Banon

 

I still can't believe the details that they have recreated in the olive oil mill!

 The fisherman - Banon

 The washerwomen - Banon

The Manger - Banon

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Another special custom that is celebrated in some families here in Provence is the thirteen desserts - lei tretze dessèrts.  The desserts are served after the "grand souper" - big dinner of Christmas eve. The number thirteen is significant because it represents Jesus and the twelve apostles.  There is not one specific list of thirteen desserts but rather a list of foods that are traditionally served.  The first four items, usually raisins, walnuts, figs, almonds, dates or prunes, represent four monastic orders: Dominicans, Franciscans, Augustinian and Carmelites.  You can then choose fresh fruits: apples, pears, grapes, oranges or mandarins. Calissons, candied fruit and nougat, all regional specialties are often part of the thirteen desserts. There is usually a bread called pompe de Noël made with olive oil that is broken instead of being sliced. Sometimes you might find the traditional yule log or spiced bread at the table as well.   I have never had the opportunity to attend a meal with the thirteen desserts but I love the idea.  

Right before Christmas I was at a local market and the vendor was selling all the makings of the thirteen desserts.

I hope you had a Merry Christmas!
Many wishes for a healthy and wonderful New Year!
BONNE ANNÉE!!!