Tuesday, January 19, 2016

Avignon - City of the Popes


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In 1988 I participated in a study abroad program through SUNY Stony Brook.  Avignon was my city of choice because I did not see myself living in Paris and I wanted to go to a smaller city.  As a student in the "Popes' City", I had a great time hanging out in cafés, drinking wine at the new wine festival and on many other occasions and exploring the city.  La Faculté de Lettres et Sciences Humaines was my home away from home for a year.  The students in our group had the opportunity to attend French classes as well as special classes for study abroad students.  It was the immersion that did it, and the fact that I met a handsome French guy!  By the time I returned home I was fluent and completely smitten with the guy and the culture.   

Avignon is a beautiful fortified city.  You can explore the different neighborhoods, visit the covered market, explore the Popes' Palace, wander in the gardens and dance on the St. Bénézet Bridge.  While my mother and her friend were visiting last November we made the trip to see my former college town.  














Our first stop was Square Agricol Perdiguier, a small park next to the tourist office. The park, named after a carpenter, is where I would go when I had some free time between classes.  There are the vestiges of a Benedictine cloisters, flower beds and many monuments and statues to check out. 

Our next stop was the most modern crèpe stand I have ever seen.  This machine could make six crèpes at a time.  As I was watching the woman fill each order, all I could think about was the I Love Lucy scene in the chocolate factory.  Would she be able to complete all the orders without messing them up?



We ordered ham and cheese crèpes and a nutella crèpe and not only were they delicious but they were huge and inexpensive!  Yum!  By the way, this shop was a bit different when I lived in Avignon.  Back then we ordered steak-haché-frites, a heart-attack-in-a-baguette,  a hamburger and fries loaded into a baguette with mayonnaise.
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We continued up Rue de la République and I reminisced about the places I would go.  There was my bank, the Monoprix and the Casino supermarket.  Eventually we arrived at the Place de l'Horloge and stopped in front of the Mairie - City Hall.  The city was on high alert, we visited the weekend after the attacks in Paris, the streets were closed, the police were present everywhere and the Gastronomy fair had been postponed.  
 


















If you look, you can see my mom's friend Mary enjoying a spin on the carosel out side City Hall.




The Popes' Palace is a major tourist site in the city.  Avignon was like the French Vatican during the 12th century, where 7 successive Popes reigned over the Roman Catholic church. Of course these popes were of French origin and they favored the French crown, but all that is water under the bridge.  The Popes eventually returned to Rome but the French got to keep the palace and the vineyards.




View of the Palace from the Place du Palais.  In the sumer this open area is often filled with street performers and crowds of tourists.





Views from the interior of the Palace.  We learned that there had been many renovations on the palace and each new Pope made changes and additions to the structure.




View of the remparts.




The roof of the kitchen.  There is a hole where the smoke from the hearth can escape.





 Over the years since the Papal residency, the Palace had been used for lots of things including military barracks and a prison.  It has been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995. The large photos show what renovations had been done to the Palace to bring it back to the time of the Popes.


 Sophia and I climbed to the roof and we had a close-up view of the statue of Mary on the top of the Church, Notre Dame des Doms.

We also had a great view of the Pont Saint Bénézet.


 


 There are some of you who remember a song about this bridge, perhaps you learned it in French class.  
Click here to listen to the song.

http://comptines.tv/sur_le_pont_d_avignon
 Le Pont Saint Bénézet was built between 1177 and 1185.  This bridge spanning the Rhone river originally had twenty-two arches but only four remain.  The bridge is named after a shepard who, according to the legend, heard the voice of Jesus ask him build a bridge spanning the Rhone.  It is said that he lifted a huge stone to prove the divine visit.  You can visit the chapel of Saint Nicolas, the patron saint of sailors, while on the bridge.  















 Sunset on the Rhone.
Looking back at the city you can see the Pope's Palace.  
Walking the ramparts at sunset.

We spent a very nice afternoon in the City of the Popes.  I loved reminiscing about my year abroad and sharing my memories with family and friends.  I hope you didn't mind!




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