Wednesday, July 20, 2016

Côtes du Rhône - Wine, Wine, Wine


France, the country of wine.  Why not do a blog about some famous wine?  Sure thing!  The only problem is that I don't know anything about wine, I mean nothing!  I can buy it, open a bottle, drink it and that's about it!  So off we go to the Côtes-du-Rhône region to taste wine.  I am the one driving the car so my "degustation" or tasting is limited.

http://www.coldbacon.com/wine/rhone.html

Côtes du Rhône (wine from the Rhone riverside) is AOC - Appellation d'Origine Controlée. This means that only the wine from this specific area can carry the name Côtes du Rhône.  

We visited the towns of Vacqueyras, Beaumes de Venise and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  I chose these three for different reasons.  I chose Vacqueras because I have tasted this wine before and I liked it.  We went to Beaumes de Venise because they make a sweet wine, Muscat, which is my favorite.  Finally, I chose Châteauneuf- du-Pape because this is the most famous in the Côtes-du-Rhône region.




Driving through this region is a feast for the eyes.  The sky is the blue you can only find in Provence; the plants smell wonderful in the hot sun; villages peek out from the tops of hills, rocks and mountains stretch up to touch the sky and the rolling vineyards undulate across the hills.  The Dentelles de Montmirail(the Montmirail Lace), located at the foot hills of Mount Ventoux, were formed by horizontal strata limestone. The jagged rocks that we see today have been eroded into ridges and spikes that can be seen from miles around. 


Dentelles de Montmirail

I think this is the village of Sablet
Our first stop was the village of Vacqueyras.  We stopped at this huge store that  has many different wines from the area as well as the wines from Vacqueyras.  I tasted a few, asked the guy lots of questions and I bought a bottle of red wine.  I don't really know if it is great wine, but it is the one I liked the most.


Our next stop was Beaumes de Venise.  Like I mentioned before, I chose this village because I love the Muscat-Beaumes de Venise wine.  It is a sweet wine often served as an aperitif before a meal. The village was very busy when we arrived. There was a soccer tournament going on at the local field, people were out in the streets and a wedding had just emptied out of the church.  


The wedding was special because an entire fire company was in attendance to celebrate one of its comrades.  In the picture the company made an arch out of their helmets and the bride and groom are entering the crowd.  I didn't get a picture of the bride and groom driving away in a decorated fire truck while sounding the sirens!


   
This church, Église Saint Nazaire, a Romanesque church constructed in the 12th century.  It was constructed on the ruins of a former temple dedicated to Apollo. I especially like the designs of vines and grapes on the tympanum of the church entrance, very appropriate for the area.


After a little exploration of the village, we stopped at two different "caves" and I tasted my favorite wine.  Of course I bought a bottle at each!



Our last stop was the village of Châteauneuf du Pape, "the Pope's new castle".  The first Pope in Avignon, Clement the V, had vines planted in the area in 1308. The tradition continued during the Avignon Papacy and "The wine of the Pope" and its vineyards were established.  After the Popes left Avignon, the area was managed by the bishops and archbishops of Avignon. Over the centuries, Châteauneuf-du-Pape has become well known in France, Italy, England, Germany and the United States.  The vineyards, grapes and wine are strictly controlled following the rules of the appellation.  Today, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is one of 10 greatest wines in France. 
http://www.domaine-mordoree.com/fe/e/history_chateauneuf_pape.htm





Before leaving we climbed up to the former castrum - fortified city and what is left of the château.  The castle was built in the 14th century for Pope John XXII, the second pope of Avignon. 
It was getting late but we were able to walk around and enjoy the beautiful views of vineyards, mountains and river.  I purchased a bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape when we tasted with a very patient seller.  We were his last clients of the day before closing up on a Friday afternoon.  I'm sure he won't remember us, but we have wonderful memories of visiting the Côtes du Rhône villages and discovering its wine and culture.

Le château - Châteauneuf du Pape

Le Mont Ventoux

Views of the Rhône River

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